There is no reason not to put some thought into your Uluru activities beyond the rock walk; the Red Centre has its finest offerings in places other than the Uluru Base Walk. To come, put in a circuit of the rock for a sunset picture and be on your way is to forgo the desert light, the cultural side of things, night time, a proper walk at Kata Tjuta and all that sets this part of Australia apart.
I am Liliana Ashcroft. So if you are putting together an itinerary for Uluru, let me give you the short of it: make your trip about culture, allow for an evening out, take your time with the sunrise or the stars and do a good walk at Uluṟu-Kata Tjuṯa National Park. You will have a much better sense of Uluṟu-Kata Tjuṯa National Park and avoid the sardine-can rush of ticking boxes.
Don’t Confine Yourself To The Famous Loop
The rock walk is what most travellers are after but it is only part of the story. A well made plan, including choosing Uluru visit month, will factor in the landscape and the timing, for the mood at Uluru is subject to the hour and what seems as flat as a pancake at midday is something else altogether at dawn.
It is a mistake to think of Uluru as a one-off. Put the cultural centre and some guided time in, view the sunrise and sunset, and set aside a day for Kata Tjuta (The Olgas) where more than a few will find their preferred walk.
On Seasonality
Before you book any accommodation or tours, decide on your month for Uluru. The season will dictate your start times and whether you can get outside and enjoy yourself. When it is cooler, you can be more at ease with longer walks and early starts. In the heat you have to structure your day around the morning and evening, period.
You will not find a tropical wet season here as in the Top End but summer in the Red Centre can be as rough as they come. Fit or not, the dry air and lack of shade once you are away from the car park will test you, and extreme temperatures mean tracks are closed for safety.
How To Get About
Ayers Rock Resort in Yulara is home to most visitors, some 20 km from the national park. Self-driving is an option as are the likes of AAT Kings or Uluru Ayers Rock Tours, but do not be under the impression you can walk to everything from your room. A brochure makes the distances seem deceptively small.
With a hire car you are at liberty to call the shots and head to the cultural centre or a sunset lookout when you like. Parking at the main sites is no trouble unless you are late for a popular viewing time, in which case you will be contending for a space with the rest of the continent.
Put Culture First
If you are going to do nothing but look at the rock then at least see the cultural side of it. It lends meaning and law to what would otherwise be a shallow affair. You may have come for the photos but you will likely leave with the recollection of why some pictures should not be taken and the importance of certain ground.
Make the Uluru cultural centre your first port of call, not the last when you are done in by the sun. There you will be put in context with Aṉangu culture and Tjukurpa, and learn the etiquette of the land. For up to date rules and any changes due to the weather, Parks Australia’s official information on Uluru is still the place to go.
A Guided Tour Is Worth It
For those inclined to want to know what they are looking at rather than just put a phone to it, a guided tour is a sound investment. They will put the geology and bush foods in perspective, tell you of the practicalities of desert life and the Aṉangu point of view. The ideal candidate: a family, a first-timer, the time-poor traveller or one who prefers to have some context put in front of them rather than do a lot of homework. Those inclined to forgo it would be the sort of repeat visitor with the basics under his belt and a desire for more of an independent time on track.
A Note On Art And Photo Etiquette
There is no point in casual tourist behaviour at the Aboriginal rock art or other culturally sensitive spots. While you will not be breaking the law by putting “Ayers Rock” in your camera as a landscape shot, there are places and cultural imperatives that make photography unwelcome; the park’s signage is there to be heeded.
Do not mistake a restriction for bureaucracy, that is what gets people wrong. In some quarters a no-photo rule is simply a matter of showing respect for a living culture. It is hardly onerous.
Make Kata Tjuta Your Walk
Should you have the energy for but one good walk, I would think twice before you put all your eggs in the Uluru basket and head for Kata Tjuta. The domes have a wildness to them and a scale you can only appreciate up close, and the walks are better for it physically. But do not be taken in; they are more demanding and exposed than most travellers give them credit for when the temperature is up.
Walpa Gorge
For a less strenuous out-and-back with some impressive walls, Walpa Gorge is the way to go. A sound choice if you are with older children or of mixed fitness and do not want to overdo things in the heat. Plan on an hour to an hour and a half to get round it, making allowance for the odd photo op, a pause for the heat and the faffing about at the trailhead. Nothing technical, but you still need to turn up early with sturdy footwear and water.
Valley Of The Winds
This is the one that lingers in the memory yet also has a way of catching you out. The car-park does not tell the whole story of how uneven and tough the track is, so unless you are sure-footed or it is not the height of summer, give it some thought. A 3 to 4 hour circuit of the olgas in decent weather is what many will put in, longer with frequent stops or a warm day. You will find even a short return is harder work than the distance implies.
| Walk Or Activity | Typical Time | Difficulty | Best For | Watch Outs |
| Uluru Base Walk | 3.5-4.5 hours | Moderate | The strong walker after the full circuit | Long exposure to the heat and little shade |
| Walpa Gorge | 1-1.5 hours | Easy to moderate | A scenic walk of shorter duration | Midday heat, loose ground |
| Valley Of The Winds | 3-4+ hours | Moderate to hard | Fit walkers for the best of Kata Tjuta | Exposure, steepness, closures when hot |
| Field Of Light Uluru | 2-3 hours | Easy | Photographers, couples, an evening out | Winter cold, the price |
| Uluru Scenic Flights | 15 to 60+ minutes | Easy | The aerial photographer or those with a short stay | Cost, weight limits, weather |
Night At Uluru
You will find evenings are more to be remembered than the middle of the day. When the desert is changing colour and the heat has gone, it is easy to see why visitors plan their trip around a sunset, some stargazing and the light installations. Book a paid night activity that has atmosphere and an unobstructed view of the country and the expenditure is justified, even after a sweaty, dusty day.
Field Of Light
One of the region’s finest evening affairs. Thousands of stems put on a show across the plain but it is best done slowly and quietly, not in a hurry to put something on social media. My own view is a photograph will not do it justice. Once it is fully dark and the temperature has dropped enough to regret not having an extra layer, the experience is darker, gentler and more of an immersion than one might think.
Dinner And Show
Wintjiri Wiru and the like are high on most wish lists for good reason. The Ayers Rock Resort puts on a number of productions and dining packages with cocktails at sunset. Wintjiri Wiru Sunset Dinner in particular is well regarded for the setting and the combination of sound, light and storytelling.
When weighing their options, a few will want to factor in the possibility of a drone or laser show. What matters is to put aside the gloss and see what is on offer in each package: do they cover your transfers and dinner, provide drinks, get you onto the viewing platform? And is it all about the spectacle or more of a cultural narrative? The pricing can be all over the place; a flashy choice does not necessarily suit those who prefer to be low-key.
A Change Of Scenery
For those with time to spare or who are not keen on walking, an adventure tour will put a lot before you in short order. Uluru scenic flights are one way to go, as are camel tours and some 4WD excursions.
Not to everyone’s taste. A few are costly but get the job done, others are rather touristy in a good way, and in the height of the season you would be wise to book up early lest availability evaporates.
In The Air
There is a certain scale to a fixed-wing or helicopter flight that you are not going to get from the ground. It puts into perspective how Uluru is set in the desert, the way Kata Tjuta comes up in clusters and the isolation of the area once you are off the roads and into the red country.
Photographers and anyone making a trip of a lifetime will appreciate it, as will older visitors for whom long walks are less appealing. Those on a budget or not at ease in a small plane might give it a pass. Expect to pay a premium, a couple of hundred AUD per head at least for the duration.
Dawn On A Camel
On paper a camel tour has its kitsch moments but with the right frame of mind it is quite atmospheric. One does not need to make out one has come across a grand desert epic to enjoy the colour and stillness of first light.
These are run by the likes of the local camel farm and are a gentler proposition than putting in on some long track. People tend to dress wrong for it. A scarf is better than a hat when the dust is up and a saddle is no place for fashion; nor should one be unprepared for the cold of dawn.
The Logistics Of Touring
Letting an operator like AAT Kings or Uluru Ayers Rock Tours take care of the timing and the talking is convenient if you have no desire to put yourself behind the wheel in conditions you do not know. They will have sunrise and sunset, a bit of culture and Kata Tjuta access rolled into a day’s work. It is efficient though you may find it a touch hurried. Tripadvisor will tell you something of an operator’s consistency but check the details for yourself before you commit. Cancellation terms and inclusions are worth more than any adjectives.
Room For Quiet
You do not have to produce a booking confirmation or open the bill for an activity to be worthwhile at Uluru. The slower things are often the best: a thermos at sunrise, an unadorned sunset, or an astronomy tour to put in mind what city dwellers don’t normally see of the night sky. Ten minutes standing still and the Red Centre reveals itself.
Sunrise And Sunset
The hype around the colour at Uluru is justified. But for the sunrise you need to be there sooner than you might think, the car parks have a habit of filling up and the light is there before the appointed hour.
A lookout is well suited to those with limited mobility or time. Have some water and a warm layer for winter, and be patient. The finest part of a sunset is after the first crowd has made to leave.
Stargazing
From a self-guided affair to a proper session, there are ways to stargaze. If the constellations are familiar to you a dark patch of sky will do; otherwise the guided version is the way to go so you understand what you are looking at instead of exclaiming “wow” at the stars. First-timers are often taken aback by the temperature drop in the desert at night.
Costs
Once you add in the resort and park entry and your meals and flights, Uluru is no place for the dirt-cheap. That said, you will find some of the more rewarding experiences are either included or inexpensive within the park. Make up your mind where to splurge and where to be simple before you start. What I would recommend is to put your money on a good evening out and a guided or scenic excursion of some sort, and let the balance of the time be for cultural pursuits, a short walk or an unstructured sunrise.
There are things you are well advised to pay for: the Field of Light, Wintjiri Wiru, a helicopter over the scenery, an organised astronomy tour or stargazing session, and in general any guided tours. On the other hand, once you have arrived there are plenty of lower cost or no cost options such as a self-guided trip to the cultural centre, the sunset lookouts and selected viewing areas. And for a change from resort dining every night, make do with a simple picnic dinner.
Planning Notes
Factor in the costs of accommodation at Ayers Rock Resort or its vicinity, restaurant bills that will be what they are in such a remote place, and park entry. City folk tend to be taken aback by the price of fuel, food and last-minute bookings; better to have some leeway in the budget than to be surprised in the servo line.
Those making their way in from a distance on the Stuart Highway should be realistic about their timing and keep a sensible eye on the tank. Heroic optimism has no place in the bush when it comes to distances.
Rules and Safety
You do not want to be one of those who tries to wing it in thongs with half a bottle of water. With the heat and exposure and how far things are, the least dramatic traveller is generally the safest.
Then there is the matter of accessibility which differs from one activity to the next. A number of lookouts and cultural stops can be handled by most, but you will not find everyone suited to the longer Kata Tjuta tracks or parts of the Uluru Base Walk.
Where People Go Wrong
It is all quite predictable. They do not check for closures, think every walk is a doddle, leave off without enough water or start too late and underestimate the heat. Parks Australia will put up a sign to close a walk for safety in severe conditions and it is not the day to have an argument with it.
Or they will pack too much in for one day. Put Uluru, Kata Tjuta, a fancy dinner, Field of Light and the sunset on paper and it seems feasible. In practice you end up too tired to take it in, cranky and covered in dust.
Have An Itinerary That Makes Sense
Whether you are in for a proper stay or just a day or two, plan accordingly. More time is preferable but a short visit is fine if you accept you cannot do it all and end up a red-dust zombie.
One day? Make it a major landscape experience, something with light or the sunset and a cultural stop. You will have atmosphere and story to show for it.
- For a half day (tired travellers or fly-in types): the cultural centre, a sunset lookout and an Uluru view.
- The classic Red Centre day: get up for the sunrise, do the Kata Tjuta walk, have a rest then spend the evening at Wintjiri Wiru or the Field of Light.
- Two or three days allows for a camel ride or scenic flight, some relaxed time at the resort and a guided cultural experience or sections of the Uluru Base Walk for those wanting some depth to their trip.
Packing
Do not overthink it. Good walking shoes, sun protection, layers for the cold desert after dark, a torch for pre-dawn hours and a refillable bottle or hydration pack. A fly net is worth having when the bugs are out even if you feel like you look the part of a fool. You will not mind.
Some Questions Answered
Fun at Uluru?
A variety is more enjoyable than nothing but the Base Walk. If the budget is there for camel or scenic flights, go for it. But a Kata Tjuta walk, the cultural centre and a sunset are usually the best mix.
Any free things to do?
After you have put down the park entry fee you can see the sunrise or sunset, do some of the shorter walks in Uluṟu-Kata Tjuṯa National Park or visit the cultural centre on your own. Good value alternatives to the Ayers Rock Resort if you are keeping an eye on expenditure.
Can you photograph Ayers Rock?
Generally speaking yes, the landscape is fair game. There are however restrictions or requests in culturally sensitive spots. Heed the signs and guidance of the culture, particularly around Aboriginal rock art and where it is designated as restricted.
Walking the Olgas?
Walpa Gorge will take you an hour or an hour and a half. The Valley of the Winds at Kata Tjuta is 3 to 4 hours for most, longer in the warm with frequent stops.
Is Uluru for non-walkers?
In a manner of speaking. There is no shortage of things to put on one’s agenda at Uluru for those who do not wish to be on foot: a helicopter ride, the Field of Light or Wintjiri Wiru, the cultural centre, some of what Ayers Rock Resort has to offer, a good scenic drive and the sun coming up or going down. One will find the Kata Tjuta walks are hardly suited to all, being rather demanding.
For The Slower, Better Trip
You are better off considering Uluru as a landscape in all its layers, not just a rock. Plan your time with an eye for the light and the culture, for a couple of experiences that stand out; it is a more rewarding way to travel than to make a hot circuit of the base and hurry through the souvenir counter.
Were I to put together an itinerary for a friend, my advice would be to get an early start and have some regard for the place. Do not overdo it and make time for a bit of quiet in the desert without any plan of action. More often than not, that is what you remember.